Another early start to a bright sunny day – we checked out of our beautiful hotel located on the Sea of Galilee and drove south again around the eastern shore of the sea.
Our first stop was Genneraset, the place where Jesus encountered the man at the tombs who was possessed with many demons. Jesus commanded the demons to leave the man and enter into a large herd of pigs that was grazing on the hillside. causing them to run down a steep embankment and into the sea. They believe this to be the actual spot based on the topography of the eastern shore-this being the only place where a steep embankment led down to the sea. Jesus then tells this man to go a tell his brethren what has been done for him! This was unusual, in that previously Jesus had always told the recipients of his miracles to remain silent and not tell anyone. This area is in the southern portion of the region known as the Decapolis (the ten cities), which was Gentile territory. (Mark 5:1-17)
From this vantage point, we were able to view Mt. Arbor, Capernaum, Tiberias, and Mt Hermon for one last time. I (Deb) really did not want to say good-bye to the Sea and Galilee. It is a beautiful area and I loved being able to see, boat, and travel around the place that Jesus lived.
One last note before we leave: When Jesus spoke in his Sermon on the Mount he said that we are to be lights, lights like a “city on a hill that cannot be hidden”. This metaphor has taken on a new meaning as we looked at the surrounding area of Galilee and saw the backdrop of His teaching. The city of Zefat sat high on a hill and its lights at night would have lit up the horizon as the people of that area looked to the western horizon. WE are to shine brightly in word and deed so that all may see and know and glorify God. (Matthew 5:14-16)
But back to the story; so the bus was leaving, and we crossed the Jordan River one last time and headed south to the well–preserved ruins of the Roman city known as Bet She ‘an. The original city dates back to the 4th century BC, when the town was an important stop for caravans and as a center of Egyptian rule. Later, it became a Canaanite city, one that was not captured immediately by the Israelite conquest (Josh. 17:11, 16). However, it would eventually be allotted to the tribe of Manasseh (Josh. 17:11). It would be controlled by the Philistines until finally becoming an Israelite city in the time of Solomon. It was at nearby Mt. Gilboa that King Saul was wounded in an epic battle with the Philistines. Rather than allow himself to be captured by the victorious Philistines, Saul chose to fall on his sword. The Philistines then cut off his head and hung his body, and that of his sons on the city walls (I Sam 31:9). Eventually the Romans built a much larger city that included the ancient city, and it is these ruins, which remain adjacent to the remnant of the ancient walls.
The ruins revealed a typical Roman city of Jesus’ time, which included a central acropolis, a large arena, a 6000-seat theatre, veladrome, and a large agora (marketplace). There were bathhouses as well as a public latrine with running water. The mosaic tile work was amazingly well preserved and beautiful. The latrine was fascinating with numerous marble seats for all!
Traveling on, we entered the West Bank and had to pass through a checkpoint, because the territory is under Palestinian jurisdiction. We then passed through a buffer zone separating Israeli and Jordanian territory, complete with mine fields on either side of the road.
After passing through another checkpoint and buffer zone, we ended at the spot on the Jordan River where it widens before reaching the Dead Sea. This is the place where John baptized Jesus. Tim, our teacher, read the story from the Gospel of John and discussed the significance of that location in Jewish history. (It was near here that the Israelites crossed into the promised land (Joshua 3), as well as the area that Elijah crossed the Jordan with Elisha and passed the mantle of ministry to him (1 Sam 7). The Jordan River is the boundary between Israel and Jordan. As we sat and listened to the teaching, we could look across the Jordan and see armed Jordanian soldiers sitting directly across from us, with Israeli soldiers standing on our side.
The border between Israel and Jordan is the middle of the river, and the Jordanian soldiers were just across the river with Israeli soldiers on our side. Our guide discussed the fact that Israel has no current relations with Syria or Lebanon, but currently is “at peace “with Jordan and Egypt. It was obvious us, in light of the armed checkpoints, mine fields, soldiers patrolling, and frequent fly-bys of Israeli fighter jets, that the peace was very fragile. It is hard to believe that we are traveling through such an unstable part of the world.
The next stop was Qumran – the place where the Dead Sea scrolls were found in 1947. Their discovery is a very interesting story and for those who do not know it, here goes! In 1947, a Bedouin shepherd boy threw a rock into a cave and heard a loud clink! He went in and discovered a broken piece of pottery revealing a hidden scroll. From that point on an additional 900 scrolls were found hidden in 11 caves separate caves, the majority being discovered after 1967 when Israel regained control of the land. The Essenes, a renegade Jewish sect (known as the “pious ones”) lived in this wilderness area. Most likely the Essenes, hearing of the approaching Roman armies in the mid- 1st century, placed their scrolls in pottery jars and hid them in nearby caves. They then joined the rebels who captured Masada and were later killed by the Romans in AD 73. The caves contained all the books of the Old Testament, except for Esther, plus other Jewish writings not included in the OT. In addition many other scrolls from their community- all of these scrolls dating back to the first century BC. This was one of the most important archeological finds in history. The comparison between the book of Isaiah that was found, which is now the oldest copy on record, and the copy that we have today miraculously shows that there is no textual difference between the two. This proof of God’s s preservation of His word over two centuries of multiple copies and human transcription is truly miraculous.
We boarded the bus one last time and headed for the south end of the Dead Sea. On the way we saw a few flocks of sheep being tended by modern-day shepherds. We are now in the wilderness. This truly looks like a wilderness – no trees except date palm trees; no greenery – just rocks and sand and tall, rocky mountains with scattered caves. These were the caves that David hid in when fleeing from Saul. I could not help but wonder – how did his 300 men fit into these caves!? This was the wilderness where John the Baptist lived. This is the wilderness where Jesus fasted for 40 days and then endured temptation. It is barren, hot, and truly desolate.
We arrived at the Dead Sea and checked in to our hotel and immediately changed to go and float in the Sea. The Sea is 35 miles long, 11 miles wide, and 1,400 feet below sea level. As we entered the Sea as the sun was sinking down and we discovered that the water is about 60 degrees. You all know how much I LOVE cold water. You surely have not seen me in the Atlantic unless the water is warm. But this is probably the only time I will be at the Dead Sea, so I had to get in. Because of the high salt and mineral content (about 33% ) your body is extremely buoyant and you do not need a float of any kind- in fact is impossible to sink, you can read a book while simply sitting in the water. Well, believe it or not, I got in with some great encouragement from my friend Cindy. Jeff, who never even thought I would make it into the water, was amazed. It was cold! Inside the hotel, they had a heated salty pool that we later enjoyed.
We had a buffet dinner and then Jeff and some of the men enjoyed a very competitive tournament of ping-pong before retiring for the night. Then another late night of blogging and editing pictures past midnight.
Once again we are humbled and grateful to God for the day.
Lila Tov