Day 17 – Venice

Today we rose early to be sure that we did not miss our sail
into Venice. The wind had finally stopped and the sun was shining brightly. As
we slowly cruised past St. Mark’s Square, for the first time, we saw the
beautiful, romantic city of Venice. We viewed the city from our own private deck
as we listened to Italian music from the deck above and ate our breakfast.

Venice, once Europe’s richest city  (even exceeding London in the 1400’s) was an
example to the world of the “good life”. This beautiful city had everything
from silks to spices, food to wine, architecture to waterways, and song and
theater to love and laughter! Established over a thousand years ago by
seafaring merchants and Roman refugees, it became the center for Mediterranean
shipping and trade, amassing great power and wealth.  It has also produced some of Europe’s
greatest artistic, architectural and cultural treasures. One of the world’s
most unique and beautiful cities, Venice consists of 120 islands in the marshy Venetian
lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northern Italy.  The city is often called the “City of
Bridges” since there are 350 bridges that cross the many canals that run
between the islands.  The maze of narrow waterways,
cobblestone walkways, small squares and narrow streets make the city both
intriguing and romantic.
As we cruised in we could already see the canals and the bridges
that connect them all.  We also saw the
many church steeples and the domed basilicas (there are 320 churches in Venice),
and the multi-colored painted houses. It was early in the morning, and the
canals were already filled with boats of every shape and size.

One of the many bridges and canals

San Giorgio Maggiore is a 16th century church on an island of the same name in Venice. The odd and controversial statue, a Marc Quinn work, has caused quite a stir since its placement in the piazza.

As soon as we were able, we loaded up our trusty backpack and
boarded a water shuttle to the famous Piazza San Marco, the epicenter of the
city, and began exploring this very unique city.

Truly, this city is unlike any other that we have visited.
The day was very hot, hot, hot, and there were many people, the most crowds we
have experienced. Trying to navigate was fun and interesting as always. Street
signs were, again, not as one would expect and not very helpful. Jeff would try
to take shortcuts to escape the crowds, but that was not always a good idea,
because walkways would often end at a canal without a bridge, causing us to
have to back track.  But that was what
made the exploration fun (except for the wear and tear on my feet). There were
lots and lots of people, canals, and bridges. But what was most obviously
missing were scooters, cars, and buses.  There was no traffic noise, nor were there any
crosswalks or traffic signals. Everyone either walks everywhere or travels by
boat.
The Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Square, is filled with
cafes, pigeons, and many people! At night, the cafes that line the square are
filled with musicians who serenade the diners as well as those strolling
through the square. The pigeons are plentiful, but are neither welcomed nor
loved by the residents. In fact, they love the seagulls because they eat the pigeons.
Despite the fact that they have outlawed the feeding of pigeons in 2008, we saw
many people feeding the pigeons, many perching on shoulders and eating out of
tourists’ hands. They say that there are 2 pigeons and 4 rats for every person
in Venice.
The square, or piazza, is huge, having over 2 acres of paved
surface.  It is surrounded by the Basilica
di San Marco, the Torre dell’Orologio clock tower, and the arcade of Procuratie
Vecchie and Nuove. 
The Basilica is a church, a cathedral, and a basilica (yes,
there is a difference, but I don’t have time to explain). This huge ornate domed
basilica is dates back to 1094 and is unlike any other cathedral in Europe due
to its combination of Roman, Renaissance, and Byzantine architecture.
Mosaic above the main entrance with bronzed horses
Tradition states that Mark, one of the gospel writers, spent
a night on the island during his missionary travels. Mark later traveled to Alexandria,
Egypt where he spread the gospel and helped establish the church in Africa. He
was buried in Alexandria, which came under Muslim control. In 838 AD, a
Venetian merchant secretly removed his bones to Venice (Legend says that he hid
them under a load of pork so the Muslims would not search his cargo and find
them, since they were forbidden to touch swine).  So the church was eventually erected in Mark’s
honor and his bones (at least some of them) are believed to be buried inside
the basilica.
The winged lion is the symbol of Mark, has been named the
patron saint of Venice. Legend has it that an angel, appearing as a lion, opened
a book that read “peace to you” when Mark was distressed during his stormy
night spent in the city. There are many statues of winged lions visible throughout
the city.
The huge ornate Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace, is right
next to St. Mark’s Cathedral.  “Doge” was
the title given to the man who was the military leader and chief magistrate of
the city-state of Venice.  The palace was
both the residence of the Doge, as well as the seat of the very powerful
government, from about 700 until Venice was conquered by Napoleon in 1797.  It was destroyed by fire on 4 separate
occasions, but each time was rebuilt more grandly and gloriously than
before. 
Doge’s Palace
The Bridge of Sighs is an enclosed bridge that connects the
Doge’s Palace to the prison next door. 
The bridge has windows overlooking the town and Grand Canal, and it is
said that prisoners, after receiving their sentence, would walk over this
bridge and gaze out, one last time, at the beautiful city that they would never
see again – causing them to sigh.
Bridge of Sighs that connects the Doge’s Palace with the prison
 
Another view of Bridge of Sighs. Prison is on the left. Notice the bars on the windows.
The Torre dell’Orologio clock tower, to the left of the
Basillica, is ornately decorated and shows the time, phase of the zodiac, as
well as the phases of the moon.
Clock Tower

Notice the winged lion.

We then decided to go to the top of the Campanile (bell
tower), originally built as a lighthouse during the 10th century.  It is over 300 feet tall (more than a
football field) with a golden statue of the archangel, Gabriel, sitting on top.
We rode the lift (elevator) to the top platform (about 200 feet) and,
unbeknownst to us, we had timed it just perfectly.  The bells ring at the top of each hour, and 5
minutes after we got to the top, the bell began to ring, long and LOUD. It was
great! This time only 1 bell rang (There are 5 on the level we were on, plus
more higher, in the very top of the tower).  Only on special occasions (2-3 times a year)
do they all ring at once. The man at the gift shop at the top said that when
they all ring he must ear plugs and the vibrations felt at the top of the tower
are tremendous. It was a very cool experience. With the long lines, if we had
tried to time it, we would have never gotten it right. We were thankful for
God’s timing in bringing us to the right place at the right time AND the views
from the top were spectacular.

Campanile
Campanile and Piazzo San Marco
Views from the Campanile
Another view with the domes of St. Mark’s
As part of day we found our way to the Rialto Bridge and had
lunch – of course: caprese salad and pizza. We quickly learned the rules for
outdoor, canal-front dining in Venice: 1) No sharing! 2) Minimum of 40 euros tab
if you want to use a credit card 3) You may not have a table by the
water if only ordering pizza!
So, we ordered more than pizza, each got our own, and paid
by cash.  Nevertheless, the pizza was
good, the view was amazing, and we loved every minute.  Although, this first dining experience did
confirm our observations up to that point that the Venetians are not near as
friendly as the Romans.
View of our restaurant (with the red awnings) from the Rialto Bridge. 
View from Rialto Bridge
We very much enjoyed out first day in Venice, meandering
through this uniquely picturesque maze of canals, boats, bridges, and colorful
houses with window boxes filled with gorgeous petunias and ivy geraniums. And,
amazingly, we really never got lost –we were always on an island and could only
go so far before finding a familiar landmark!
Of course, we are very happy to be back in Italy –the land
of pizza and gelati.  And yes, we did
have gelati!
We finally had to rush to get back to the ship by 6:00, this
time not because the ship was leaving, but because we did not want to miss our
last night with Sean and Laura, and Colin and Sue at dinner.  We barely made it in time and had no time to
change or “freshen up” after a long day of walking, rushing into the Grand
Cuvee dining room about 10 minutes late. 
We had another great meal and then, sadly, said our farewells to our new
friends.  We would love for them to come
visit us in the States, and we now have invitations from them to visit both
coasts of Australia.
Then, the dreaded task of beginning to get everything we
brought with us, plus what we have gathered on our trip, packed into already
full suitcases.  I think our carry-ons
will weigh more than our checked luggage. 
No problem…Jeff will be carrying them!

Buona Notte
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