Today was our first full day in Israel and we spent the whole day in the region of Galilee. Galilee was the area in which Jesus spent most of his earthly ministry – teaching and performing miracles.
We began the day with a drive halfway around the Sea of Galilee and up the steep road to Mount Arbel. We hiked a short distance to a cliff overlook that gave us an amazing view of the surrounding Galilean countryside. To have this view was so fantastic- it gave us a complete overview of the area we would be touring for the day. We could see the Sea of Galilee, Capernaum, Chorazin, Magdala, the area northwest of the sea known as the Decapolis, and the many hills and valleys of Galilee where Jesus walked and lived. During His time there were forested hills and deep valleys with numerous villages. Today there are hills with bushes, rocks, and many wild flowers , but larger villages and towns in addition to the much larger city of Tiberias. During Jesus’ day the mild climate produced olives, grapes, figs, wheat, and barley, as well as grass for grazing flocks. Today there were fields of wheat and groves of olives, mangos, and pomegranates, and, surprisingly, also bananas! Although there were a few cows on the hillside, the area no longer supports large herds of livestock.
Next, we traveled to Tabgha – the site of several springs that flow into the Sea of Galilee. This location has been traditionally named as the place where Jesus fed the 5,000, but Luke 9:10 and John 6:1-15 indicate that Jesus performed the miracle on the northeastern side of the Sea of Galilee, beyond the city of Bethsaida. The Church of the Multiplication is built on the traditional site.
Located on a small hill overlooking the Sea of Galilee near Tabgha, the Mount of Beatitudes is the traditional site of Jesus’ delivery of the Sermon on the Mount. The Church of the Beatitudes was built to commemorate this important aspect of Jesus’ministry.
Very close to Tabgha is the likely spot where Jesus met with the disciples after His resurrection. Jesus had told them to meet Him in Galilee and here Jesus had prepared a fish-breakfast for Peter and the disciples after their long night of unsuccessful fishing (Jn 21:1-21). The Church of the Primacy of St. Peter commemorates this site.
We then took a boat ride across the Sea of Galilee back to the town of Tiberias. The boat ride was wonderful and was one of my (Deb) favorite parts of the day. I had to keep reminding myself that this is really the exact location, in the very seas where Jesus walked on the water and Peter asked to join him. Then, another time, when a storm suddenly arose while Jesus was sleeping in the boat and his disciples were rowing and fretting (waking Jesus up and claiming that He did not care if they perished), Jesus calms the wind and waves with a word! Our day at sea was windy and I could not help but think that a storm could possibly come up quickly as they can often do. I also asked Jeff if he wanted to try walking on the water and he said, “no.”
Our last stop of the day was Capernaum. Both Jeff and I agreed that this, in addition to the views from Mt. Arbel, were our favorites- a great beginning and a great ending to the day. Capernaum was an important town on the Sea of Galilee, with access to the fishing industry as well as the international highway that ran from Mesopotamia to Egypt. Because of its strategic location, it was important to the Roman Empire, which stationed a centurion and detachment of troops, a custom station, and a high officer of the king. Jesus moved here after his rejection at Nazareth and made it the center of his activity for18-24 months. Peter, Andrew, James, and John lived here and were called to be disciples here (Mt 4:13-22).
At Capernaum, Jesus: called Matthew (Levi) from his tax office, taught in the synagogue; healed many including Peter’s mother in law (Mk 1:21-); healed the centurion’s servant (Mt 8:5-13); healed the paralyzed man let down through roof (Mt 9:1-8); raised Jairus’ daughter from the dead (Mt 9:18-26); and healed many other sick people here. In fact more healings were recorded in this city than any other city, yet they still did not believe.
Today there is nothing left of the town. No village or city exists there today. Jesus had cursed Capernaum, Chorazin, and Bethsaida for their unbelief. All three are non-existent today. With only ruins- all destroyed by an earthquake.
There are, however, ruins of a synagogue and houses located there. The synagogue was beautifully located overlooking the Sea of Galilee. It was amazing to stand in the very synagogue in which Jesus regularly taught and ministered.
To say that it is very hard to wrap our minds around the fact that we visited and walked where Jesus lived and walked is a huge understatement. We are both amazed, humbled, and grateful to have this experience, to be able to put a visual context to the words of scripture and the stories of Jesus’ life and ministry. We praise God for the opportunity.
We returned to our hotel in time for our nightly Kosher buffet – this time on the evening of the Sabbath.
Shabbat shalom. Lila Tov.
