• Category Archives Eastern Mediterranean Journey 2013
  • Day 17 – Venice

    Today we rose early to be sure that we did not miss our sail
    into Venice. The wind had finally stopped and the sun was shining brightly. As
    we slowly cruised past St. Mark’s Square, for the first time, we saw the
    beautiful, romantic city of Venice. We viewed the city from our own private deck
    as we listened to Italian music from the deck above and ate our breakfast.

    Venice, once Europe’s richest city  (even exceeding London in the 1400’s) was an
    example to the world of the “good life”. This beautiful city had everything
    from silks to spices, food to wine, architecture to waterways, and song and
    theater to love and laughter! Established over a thousand years ago by
    seafaring merchants and Roman refugees, it became the center for Mediterranean
    shipping and trade, amassing great power and wealth.  It has also produced some of Europe’s
    greatest artistic, architectural and cultural treasures. One of the world’s
    most unique and beautiful cities, Venice consists of 120 islands in the marshy Venetian
    lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northern Italy.  The city is often called the “City of
    Bridges” since there are 350 bridges that cross the many canals that run
    between the islands.  The maze of narrow waterways,
    cobblestone walkways, small squares and narrow streets make the city both
    intriguing and romantic.
    As we cruised in we could already see the canals and the bridges
    that connect them all.  We also saw the
    many church steeples and the domed basilicas (there are 320 churches in Venice),
    and the multi-colored painted houses. It was early in the morning, and the
    canals were already filled with boats of every shape and size.

    One of the many bridges and canals

    San Giorgio Maggiore is a 16th century church on an island of the same name in Venice. The odd and controversial statue, a Marc Quinn work, has caused quite a stir since its placement in the piazza.

    As soon as we were able, we loaded up our trusty backpack and
    boarded a water shuttle to the famous Piazza San Marco, the epicenter of the
    city, and began exploring this very unique city.

    Truly, this city is unlike any other that we have visited.
    The day was very hot, hot, hot, and there were many people, the most crowds we
    have experienced. Trying to navigate was fun and interesting as always. Street
    signs were, again, not as one would expect and not very helpful. Jeff would try
    to take shortcuts to escape the crowds, but that was not always a good idea,
    because walkways would often end at a canal without a bridge, causing us to
    have to back track.  But that was what
    made the exploration fun (except for the wear and tear on my feet). There were
    lots and lots of people, canals, and bridges. But what was most obviously
    missing were scooters, cars, and buses.  There was no traffic noise, nor were there any
    crosswalks or traffic signals. Everyone either walks everywhere or travels by
    boat.
    The Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Square, is filled with
    cafes, pigeons, and many people! At night, the cafes that line the square are
    filled with musicians who serenade the diners as well as those strolling
    through the square. The pigeons are plentiful, but are neither welcomed nor
    loved by the residents. In fact, they love the seagulls because they eat the pigeons.
    Despite the fact that they have outlawed the feeding of pigeons in 2008, we saw
    many people feeding the pigeons, many perching on shoulders and eating out of
    tourists’ hands. They say that there are 2 pigeons and 4 rats for every person
    in Venice.
    The square, or piazza, is huge, having over 2 acres of paved
    surface.  It is surrounded by the Basilica
    di San Marco, the Torre dell’Orologio clock tower, and the arcade of Procuratie
    Vecchie and Nuove. 
    The Basilica is a church, a cathedral, and a basilica (yes,
    there is a difference, but I don’t have time to explain). This huge ornate domed
    basilica is dates back to 1094 and is unlike any other cathedral in Europe due
    to its combination of Roman, Renaissance, and Byzantine architecture.
    Mosaic above the main entrance with bronzed horses
    Tradition states that Mark, one of the gospel writers, spent
    a night on the island during his missionary travels. Mark later traveled to Alexandria,
    Egypt where he spread the gospel and helped establish the church in Africa. He
    was buried in Alexandria, which came under Muslim control. In 838 AD, a
    Venetian merchant secretly removed his bones to Venice (Legend says that he hid
    them under a load of pork so the Muslims would not search his cargo and find
    them, since they were forbidden to touch swine).  So the church was eventually erected in Mark’s
    honor and his bones (at least some of them) are believed to be buried inside
    the basilica.
    The winged lion is the symbol of Mark, has been named the
    patron saint of Venice. Legend has it that an angel, appearing as a lion, opened
    a book that read “peace to you” when Mark was distressed during his stormy
    night spent in the city. There are many statues of winged lions visible throughout
    the city.
    The huge ornate Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace, is right
    next to St. Mark’s Cathedral.  “Doge” was
    the title given to the man who was the military leader and chief magistrate of
    the city-state of Venice.  The palace was
    both the residence of the Doge, as well as the seat of the very powerful
    government, from about 700 until Venice was conquered by Napoleon in 1797.  It was destroyed by fire on 4 separate
    occasions, but each time was rebuilt more grandly and gloriously than
    before. 
    Doge’s Palace
    The Bridge of Sighs is an enclosed bridge that connects the
    Doge’s Palace to the prison next door. 
    The bridge has windows overlooking the town and Grand Canal, and it is
    said that prisoners, after receiving their sentence, would walk over this
    bridge and gaze out, one last time, at the beautiful city that they would never
    see again – causing them to sigh.
    Bridge of Sighs that connects the Doge’s Palace with the prison
     
    Another view of Bridge of Sighs. Prison is on the left. Notice the bars on the windows.
    The Torre dell’Orologio clock tower, to the left of the
    Basillica, is ornately decorated and shows the time, phase of the zodiac, as
    well as the phases of the moon.
    Clock Tower

    Notice the winged lion.

    We then decided to go to the top of the Campanile (bell
    tower), originally built as a lighthouse during the 10th century.  It is over 300 feet tall (more than a
    football field) with a golden statue of the archangel, Gabriel, sitting on top.
    We rode the lift (elevator) to the top platform (about 200 feet) and,
    unbeknownst to us, we had timed it just perfectly.  The bells ring at the top of each hour, and 5
    minutes after we got to the top, the bell began to ring, long and LOUD. It was
    great! This time only 1 bell rang (There are 5 on the level we were on, plus
    more higher, in the very top of the tower).  Only on special occasions (2-3 times a year)
    do they all ring at once. The man at the gift shop at the top said that when
    they all ring he must ear plugs and the vibrations felt at the top of the tower
    are tremendous. It was a very cool experience. With the long lines, if we had
    tried to time it, we would have never gotten it right. We were thankful for
    God’s timing in bringing us to the right place at the right time AND the views
    from the top were spectacular.

    Campanile
    Campanile and Piazzo San Marco
    Views from the Campanile
    Another view with the domes of St. Mark’s
    As part of day we found our way to the Rialto Bridge and had
    lunch – of course: caprese salad and pizza. We quickly learned the rules for
    outdoor, canal-front dining in Venice: 1) No sharing! 2) Minimum of 40 euros tab
    if you want to use a credit card 3) You may not have a table by the
    water if only ordering pizza!
    So, we ordered more than pizza, each got our own, and paid
    by cash.  Nevertheless, the pizza was
    good, the view was amazing, and we loved every minute.  Although, this first dining experience did
    confirm our observations up to that point that the Venetians are not near as
    friendly as the Romans.
    View of our restaurant (with the red awnings) from the Rialto Bridge. 
    View from Rialto Bridge
    We very much enjoyed out first day in Venice, meandering
    through this uniquely picturesque maze of canals, boats, bridges, and colorful
    houses with window boxes filled with gorgeous petunias and ivy geraniums. And,
    amazingly, we really never got lost –we were always on an island and could only
    go so far before finding a familiar landmark!
    Of course, we are very happy to be back in Italy –the land
    of pizza and gelati.  And yes, we did
    have gelati!
    We finally had to rush to get back to the ship by 6:00, this
    time not because the ship was leaving, but because we did not want to miss our
    last night with Sean and Laura, and Colin and Sue at dinner.  We barely made it in time and had no time to
    change or “freshen up” after a long day of walking, rushing into the Grand
    Cuvee dining room about 10 minutes late. 
    We had another great meal and then, sadly, said our farewells to our new
    friends.  We would love for them to come
    visit us in the States, and we now have invitations from them to visit both
    coasts of Australia.
    Then, the dreaded task of beginning to get everything we
    brought with us, plus what we have gathered on our trip, packed into already
    full suitcases.  I think our carry-ons
    will weigh more than our checked luggage. 
    No problem…Jeff will be carrying them!

    Buona Notte