From our room we could see the sunrise over the Dead Sea – a great start to a day filled with anticipation, since we were on our way to Jerusalem!
As we traveled north along the Dead Sea to first our two stops the Dead Sea was on our right and the tall, barren mountains of the wilderness was on our left. The barren landscape was dotted with groves of date palms, the only vegetation visible in that area.
Our first stop of the day was Masada, a mesa located in the barren wilderness on the western shore of the sea. Herod the Great a very troubled, brutal, and paranoid king built Masada as an impenetrable fortress on top of a 1000-foot flat-topped mountain. It was meant to be a place for him to flee to in the event that his enemies tried to kill him. He built huge walls around the city on top of the mountain and within the walls built a luxurious palace complete with a water collection system and huge cistern, as well as storehouses for food and supplies that would last for years. Herod never actually visited the city in his lifetime. When Jerusalem fell to the Romans in 70 AD, a small group of Jewish patriots fled to Masada and seized and occupied the city for themselves. It was there that they made their final stand against Rome. After 3 years, the Romans were able to build a wall around the city to prevent their escape, and then build a ramp up the side of the mountain to eventually break through the walls. The night before the Romans broke through, the defenders burned all the buildings within the city (they did not destroy the food because they wanted the Romans know that they did not give up because they were out of supplies) and then killed each other, choosing death over torture and slavery to Rome. The historian, Josephus, states that 960 men died here. This city has become a national shrine to the bravery of the Jewish resistance and a symbolic rallying point for Jewish nationalists.
Next we travelled to En-gedi, (which means spring of the wild goat), a lush oasis in the middle of the wilderness. This was a very familiar territory for David. He spent many years fleeing and hiding in the caves scattered throughout this hot, barren, mountainous region as he ran from the jealous King Saul. At this particular spot, David and his men were hiding deep in a cave, and the king came in to relieve himself. David’s men urged him to take advantage of this opportunity to kill Saul, but David refuses to lift a hand against the king. Instead he merely cuts off a piece of his robe. After Saul leaves the cave, David very bravely and humbly, confronts Saul and tells him what he has done, proving that he is not out to overthrow him. (1 Samuel 24). We are here in winter and even now it is very warm. The lush vegetation and the cool, refreshing springs and waterfalls, contrast the dry, dusty landscape. These caves would have been a welcome place in the heat of summer for David and his men, as well as a great hiding place.
We then boarded the bus and headed for Jerusalem! We passed by Jericho and climbed up through many mountains to get to the city. We are reminded of what must have been a very long and steep journey that Jesus made on foot to come to this city each year for Passover, and then for the final Passover. We saw Bedouin shepherds, sheep, goats, and donkeys along the way. Our guide told us the Bedouins are the Israeli version of gypsies even to this day. We also saw 3 “parked “camels waiting for their masters! As we entered the outskirts of the city, we had to pass through a checkpoint. As we looked across a field of sheep and a shepherd, we were able to see the old city and the Dome of the Rock (the place where the temple used to exist) as we made our way to the Mount of Olives, overlooking the city from the east.
When we got to the Mount of Olives, I was able to ride a camel! His name was Kojak and he was not very friendly, but it was fun!
We then listened to Tim teach as we looked out over the city. We walked down the Mount of Olives, taking the road that Jesus would have used as he entered the city triumphantly on Palm Sunday, to the Garden of Gethsemane (olive press) where we sat and took communion together. This garden, with its clusters of ancient olive trees, is directly across the Kidron Valley from the eastern temple wall and is where Jesus would often retreat.
As the sun was going down we sat quietly and could hear birds singing, mixed with the street sounds of the bustling city – much different from the serenity of Galilee.
Nevertheless, reflecting on the night of Jesus’ agony in the garden (Mark 14:32-52), knowing that this was the very spot that He prayed, knowing in both His humanity and His deity that He knew the price He would pay for me, for my sin – and still He continued on. I had no words, only thank you. Thank you for living the life I could not live and for paying the debt I could not pay. Thank you.
Lila tov